Tepuka is a tiny uninhabited island on the western side of Funafuti Atoll, perhaps 20km across the other side of the lagoon. It is a strikingly beautiful but fragile environment. Evidence of a storm having eroded beyond the beach and into the vegetation was found in fallen coconut palms. Somewhere in the centre of the island is the ruins of an old American bunker dating back to World War Two, although I didn’t go looking for it. Instead, I walked around the island, had a snorkel, and enjoyed lunch cooked over an open fire.